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Post by james132 on Feb 4, 2018 18:22:53 GMT
Hi all,
So having picked up my MT10 yesterday I am looking at my first mod, the Austin Racing decat system to release the amazing sound that the CP4 is capable of.
What I want to know is can I simply remove the existing standard cat and can and fit the decat system? I know that there is the exup valve, whats best to be done with this?
Also, would you recommend that the ecu is flashed straight away, or something that could be done further down the line?
Any advice would be much appreciated,
James.
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Post by Bogie on Feb 4, 2018 19:00:06 GMT
This is my opinion only but if you're going to spend the money do it right the first time. I would get the ECU flashed, remove the EXUP and do the smog block off plates. You will get the sound you want and you will have the bike running smooth and strong.
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Post by james132 on Feb 4, 2018 19:33:05 GMT
Can you enlighten me more on the smog plates please?
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Post by rizla on Feb 4, 2018 21:40:52 GMT
Can you enlighten me more on the smog plates please? Two small aluminium plates that are installed on the valve cover to blank off the ais. This stop unburnt fuel being pumped into the hot exhaust and will enable a true air fuel ratio for when your bike is being tuned.
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Post by Bogie on Feb 4, 2018 23:30:47 GMT
Can you enlighten me more on the smog plates please? Two small aluminium plates that are installed on the valve cover to blank off the ais. This stop unburnt fuel being pumped into the hot exhaust and will enable a true air fuel ratio for when your bike is being tuned. Rizla got it for me. LOL
Here is a how to video.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=bg6u1rGuE78
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Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2018 5:53:53 GMT
The AIS injects air into the exhaust system, to lower emissions at the end of the tailpipe. If you are unsure how to remove this system and fit the plates, all the guys who do re-mapping can do this for you. It will cost you a few quid more, but if you are not confident with spanners, then there is no price on piece of mind.
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Post by james132 on Feb 10, 2018 20:35:02 GMT
Thanks for the info.
I'm more than happy on the spanners, I maintain aircraft for a living.
Is the AIS removal a must do? I've read a few things about it, most people doing it to get rid of the over run pops and bangs.. Personally something I love.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2018 21:07:27 GMT
Thanks for the info. I'm more than happy on the spanners, I maintain aircraft for a living. Is the AIS removal a must do? I've read a few things about it, most people doing it to get rid of the over run pops and bangs.. Personally something I love. You should be fine then, the smog plates are not a MUST DO. If you like the pops and bangs, leave the AIS system on. Bearing in mind what I saw on the dyno when I had mine re-mapped, I wouldnt run around long with a de-cat pipe, without having your bike re-mapped, most MT's are quite lean to start off with, a de-cat makes this worse. As I think someone has already said, put the de-cat pipe on, take it for a re-map, job done. You will never regret it.
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Post by james132 on Mar 31, 2018 17:11:24 GMT
Just an update for anyone interested..
I fitted the austin racing decat a few weeks back, the sound is simply incredible! I've been out for a few short rides with it and couldn't be happier.
I'm taking the bike into trackelectronics (quite local to me) for the ECU flash on Wednesday.
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Post by pighog on Apr 18, 2018 23:16:15 GMT
Hi guys, new here—picked up my bike last week and also have an AR decat system on the way. Order is being ‘processed’, hoping it won’t take too long!
Interestingly, I spoke to my Yamaha dealer and they recommended bolting the exhaust straight on and said not to get the bike remapped as it wouldn’t need it.
I was originally planning to do it though; I’ve had my Daytona remapped with a fuelling module and it made a huge difference. I’m just a bit concerned that having an ECU flash on the MT means that it can’t be updated by Yamaha without losing the custom map and then I’m stuck with an outdated ECU—does anyone else see this as a problem? Is it a valid reason not to have the ECU flashed or am I being funny?
I guess I could buy a fuelling module but they’re more expensive and more restricted than an ECU flash, so I’d rather not (plus there’s no more room under the seat).
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Post by paulb63 on Apr 19, 2018 1:24:00 GMT
It will run lean with out some kind of compensation for removing the cat. With the ECU flashing approach you can get more things done which make quite big difference.
The ECU flash usually turns off AIS / EXUP / Fuel cutoff on Decel and changes the fuel map (there is only one). Depending on the flash you might get the ETV tables altered to improve the way the physical throttle activation is mapped to the electronic throttle valves. This alters the Mode characteristics - STD-A-B. Most of these things are to overcome Euro 4 and the Cat. I had mine done on a dyno and the guy added about 5-6% fuel across the bottom - mid range and smoothed out the B mode ETV table. Before that it was very rough / snatchy (decat) and must have been running pretty lean. I didn't ride it long before the tuning / ecu flash. My guy used Woolich. (no locals using FTECU). They told me if there is a yamaha warranty issue - I bring it back and they put it back to stock. If you have the software (woolich / FTECU) and the cables you can probably back it up somehow. Just copy the fuel map and other tables? - not sure. I think Woolich have the standard maps for download. I did my changes after the break-in service. I probably don't need to take it back to yamaha before my warranty is up. (2 years) I don't do high mileage. I have a Two brothers S1R decat on my MT. I installed the P1X suppressor because it is loud! But awesome. Even with the suppressor its loud but with ear plugs its ok.
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Post by pighog on Apr 19, 2018 9:17:32 GMT
Yeah, I’m more inclined just to do it. The fuelling on my Daytona was all over the place before I had it remapped and bolting on the exhaust and leaving it seems somewhat wrong to me.
I’ll probably change the air filter too. I’m presuming that I don’t need an AIS removal kit if this is turned off with an ECU flash?
I like loud, the bike doesn’t feel like it’s mine yet while it’s so quiet! Two Bros exhausts always sound good but I like the finish on AR’s work. They make some beautiful pie cut titanium headers but they’re an extra £2k or so. Not quite within my budget!
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Post by paulb63 on Apr 20, 2018 0:47:27 GMT
Yeah, I’m more inclined just to do it. The fuelling on my Daytona was all over the place before I had it remapped and bolting on the exhaust and leaving it seems somewhat wrong to me. I’ll probably change the air filter too. I’m presuming that I don’t need an AIS removal kit if this is turned off with an ECU flash? I like loud, the bike doesn’t feel like it’s mine yet while it’s so quiet! Two Bros exhausts always sound good but I like the finish on AR’s work. They make some beautiful pie cut titanium headers but they’re an extra £2k or so. Not quite within my budget! I got the S1R black series with decat pipe. (carbon fibre with black end caps) it was $472 USD shipping New Zealand was $90USD! . Where I am there are not a ton of choices. Anyway it matches the bike since it's mostly black. Came with adapters for the O2 sensors etc.. Since the AIS is an electric pump, disabling it is probably enough. There is a port in the bottom of the airbox where it pulls air through and two ports in the top of the engine / cam cover that it pumps air through to the exhaust. I guess with the pump disabled not much air is going to get through. I have seen elsewhere that if you take out the AIS gear (pump / tubing etc). you need the block off plates for the cam cover + a rubber bung for the airbox + a dongle for the wiring loom. The dongle is a resistor to make the ECU think the pump is still attached. obviously if you get the AIS disabled that doesn't matter. If not the ECU will throw a code. Anyway if you do go that way make sure your block off plate kit has those bits in it. smartmoto is the one I used. There are some good videos showing howto remove the AIS. Makes life a lot easier if you are thinking about doing it yourself. I removed the AIS installed the exhaust and added the cable that the woolich software needs to write to the ECU. (Because I got it done on a dyno.) If you take the ECU out and send it somewhere you won't need that cable. The issue you will have with a new exhaust is that you will want to give it full noise at every opportunity because it sounds so good! Attachments:
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Post by paulb63 on Apr 20, 2018 0:50:59 GMT
Yeah, I’m more inclined just to do it. The fuelling on my Daytona was all over the place before I had it remapped and bolting on the exhaust and leaving it seems somewhat wrong to me. I’ll probably change the air filter too. I’m presuming that I don’t need an AIS removal kit if this is turned off with an ECU flash? I like loud, the bike doesn’t feel like it’s mine yet while it’s so quiet! Two Bros exhausts always sound good but I like the finish on AR’s work. They make some beautiful pie cut titanium headers but they’re an extra £2k or so. Not quite within my budget! I got the S1R black series with decat pipe. (carbon fibre with black end caps) it was $472 USD shipping New Zealand was $90USD! . Where I am there are not a ton of choices. Anyway it matches the bike since it's mostly black. Came with adapters for the O2 sensors etc.. Since the AIS is an electric pump, disabling it is probably enough. There is a port in the bottom of the airbox where it pulls air through and two ports in the top of the engine / cam cover that it pumps air through to the exhaust. I guess with the pump disabled not much air is going to get through. I have seen elsewhere that if you take out the AIS gear (pump / tubing etc). you need the block off plates for the cam cover + a rubber bung for the airbox + a dongle for the wiring loom. The dongle is a resistor to make the ECU think the pump is still attached. obviously if you get the AIS disabled that doesn't matter. If not the ECU will throw a code. Anyway if you do go that way make sure your block off plate kit has those bits in it. smartmoto is the one I used. There are some good videos showing howto remove the AIS. Makes life a lot easier if you are thinking about doing it yourself. I removed the AIS installed the exhaust and added the cable that the woolich software needs to write to the ECU. (Because I got it done on a dyno.) If you take the ECU out and send it somewhere you won't need that cable. The issue you will have with a new exhaust is that you will want to give it full noise at every opportunity because it sounds so good! Attachments:
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Post by james132 on Apr 22, 2018 18:40:45 GMT
If someone can explain how to upload some photos I'l stick up the Dyno print offs and some pictures of the system. The ECU flash is 100% worth it, completely changed the bike, plus you can change so many other things. I had AIS turned off, EXUP disabled, fuel cut turned off, fan temps down by 5degrees and 1:1 throttle. The sound is incredible! www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HSp5WFR72U&t=4swww.youtube.com/watch?v=aL2r6fYv86Q
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