jezza
Junior Member
Posts: 11
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Post by jezza on May 14, 2020 18:27:47 GMT
Any tips please guys I have just refitted my cat to stop the pop pop bang on deceleration and found that the bike doesn’t seem quite as responsive now down in low revs. So was thinking of wiring open the exup valve as it doesn’t start to open until about 6 grand. Has anyone done this? And if so what are the pros and cons, if any?
Cheers
Jezza
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Post by ccmcfadyen on May 14, 2020 18:51:26 GMT
Why not just buy a link pipe and keep the OE silencer. Leo Vince are going for 165 new delivered. Good weight savings too.
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jezza
Junior Member
Posts: 11
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Post by jezza on May 14, 2020 19:29:53 GMT
I have a link pipe that I just removed. Just want to know the effect of wiring open the exup valve really.
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Post by ccmcfadyen on May 14, 2020 20:20:24 GMT
Have you bought a link pipe with a exup valve in it? Most link pipes usually do away with the EXCV cables.
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jezza
Junior Member
Posts: 11
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Post by jezza on May 14, 2020 21:17:53 GMT
Have you bought a link pipe with a exup valve in it? Most link pipes usually do away with the EXCV cables.
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jezza
Junior Member
Posts: 11
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Post by jezza on May 14, 2020 21:18:15 GMT
Have you bought a link pipe with a exup valve in it? Most link pipes usually do away with the EXCV cables.
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jezza
Junior Member
Posts: 11
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Post by jezza on May 14, 2020 21:25:34 GMT
no mate, I bought a bike with a link pipe and end can already fitted. The link pipe had no exup valve and was way too loud for me, it also popped banged and farted like mad on deceleration. I don’t want to map the ecu as these bikes are powerful enough stock. So I removed the link pipe, put the cat back on, set up the exup valve and just noticed that is not so responsive off the throttle at low revs. As the exup valve only starts to open at 6000rpm I wondered what the difference would be by wiring it open. All my R1’s have always had a more progressive exup valve that will not just snap open at 6000rpm so thought this might be an issue. Have you ever wired open the exup valve? I think I will just give it a shot on the weekend and see for myself 👍👌
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Post by ccmcfadyen on May 14, 2020 21:34:52 GMT
Sounds the bike wasn't mapped to the new exhaust and had the AIS disabled. Getting an ECU flash won't add heaps amount of extra BHP. You're just altering the IAP and TPS maps to suit the mods.
I have just fitted a Leo Vince Decat pipe and sprint P08 filter. I have sent my ECU away to J33 to be mapped by a well known MT10 tuner. He'll disable the AIS (eliminating pops and bangs) EXCV and O2 sensors. As well as raising the rev limiter and remove the speed restriction.Cant wait to test it all out once I have the ECU back.
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Post by charwood23 on May 15, 2020 11:47:14 GMT
The pops and bangs are from the AIS. The EXUP being open can make these more prominent.
If your not flashing (which I recommend, see the end here...) then grab a AIS blanking kit. You can then remove it all completley and rid the pops and bangs all together.
Wiring the EXUP makes the bike sound louder but not obnoxiously so. I think it sounds better and have mine wired open.
You can remove the EXUP servo and cables too from under the seat but will need an EXUP eliminator. I make and sell those.
You don't have to have one as you can just remove the cables and leave the servo motor connected electrically. Just stops a fault code being thrown.
Now flashes. The flash is so much more than making more power. I actually got mine for all the other reasons. Namely smoothing the off throttle deaccelaration, disabling the AIS and correcting the fuelling which is incredibly lean. Like damaging the engine lean. It's lean as it needs to meet EU regs for emissions but lean bikes run hot and as such everything will wear more and quicker. You will be good for many miles but why you'd want a lean bike when you can fix it and gain so much more for about £200 I don't know.
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jezza
Junior Member
Posts: 11
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Post by jezza on May 17, 2020 19:08:00 GMT
Thanks Charwood23
My 10 is a 2016 model that I just bought, it had a straight through link pipe and SP Engineering end can on it when purchased and I rode it back to London from Norwich with a super loud exhaust and huge pops and bangs on deceleration. As we have been locked down for a while I decided to put the original cat back on and hook the exup cables back up to the servo under the seat. I figured (like your good self) that running a straight through pipe on a standard ECU would make the bike not only louder but also run even more lean than the super lean stock setting that will cook the engine in time. In the past I have owned 3 different R1’s and Fzr1000 Exups which all used to run terrible without the exup valve. The MT 10 actually seems to run better without it. This is why I thought I might leave the cat on for correct fueling while wiring up the exup valve for better responsiveness at low revs. My new questions for you then mate are as follows and any ideas will be appreciated. 1: Will wiring the exup valve open affect the fuelling as the sensors are located before the exup valve? 2: Will I need to get an ECU re-map or Power Commander installed if I wire open the exup valve? 3: If I need a remap (for the exact same reasons as yourself) how much does it cost and who will do this for me? 4: What are the differences you have noticed from your re-map, are you happy with the outcome?
Cheers bud
Jezza
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Post by charwood23 on May 23, 2020 7:42:55 GMT
1: Will wiring the exup valve open affect the fuelling as the sensors are located before the exup valve?
No, it has nothing to do with fuelling. In the old days EXUP used to improve low end torque by increasing back pressure at low revs. Now it's just for noise on modern engines. There is a post on one of the FB forum's where a Dyno tuner took a stock bike save for a can and ran it with the EXUP as normal and wired open. The only difference, +2 BHP with it open.
2: Will I need to get an ECU re-map or Power Commander installed if I wire open the exup valve?
No. Also a power commander cannot map the closed loop part of the fuel map. Well it can but the setup needed to trick the bike wanders over time. Even DynoJet said they've only seen one steady setup on an MT10 but couldn't replicate it. Get a flash if anything.
3: If I need a remap (for the exact same reasons as yourself) how much does it cost and who will do this for me?
Remap to sort the fuelling is good thing. I'd check to see if you've not got one already. There is no sure fire way but eliminator plugs on the O² sensors may suggest not. Costs vary with an awful lot of recommendations for Junction 33 (J33). P3 tuning also come rated and are about £70 cheaper and uses the same software (Woolich). I went J33 and it was £225. Also get free alterations of you change stuff, just cover postage.
4: What are the differences you have noticed from your re-map, are you happy with the outcome?
Noticeably smoother power delivery but by far the best is the less snatchy throttle and the removal (mostly) of the harsh off throttle.
And yes, I'm very happy with the outcome.
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