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Rcs19
Jul 13, 2019 6:42:40 GMT
via mobile
Post by harri183 on Jul 13, 2019 6:42:40 GMT
Any one done it? Is there a micro switch that works with both the cruise and brake light or do you have to cut and crimp? Have read all the posts I can find. Cheers
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Rcs19
Jul 13, 2019 14:41:21 GMT
Post by exuptoy on Jul 13, 2019 14:41:21 GMT
I think charwood23 has done it with some fancy switch and relay set up. Just read his post on the FZ forum.
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Post by charwood23 on Jul 13, 2019 15:50:11 GMT
I sell this It's nothing new and ground breaking here other than a relay in a neat compact plug and play unit. Fully tested and retains all OEM functionality. £35 posted but requires you sending me your switch supplied by Brembo. I can supply you a complete unti with another switch but even at cost these are £33 on their own!
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Rcs19
Jul 13, 2019 17:35:51 GMT
via mobile
Post by harri183 on Jul 13, 2019 17:35:51 GMT
Cheers as soon as I order it will send it over to you.
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Post by charwood23 on Jul 13, 2019 17:38:10 GMT
Cheers as soon as I order it will send it over to you. Ideal. If you've got FB messenger get in touch @ Creg Wooden 👍🏼
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Rcs19
Jul 14, 2019 22:48:26 GMT
via mobile
Post by ccmcfadyen on Jul 14, 2019 22:48:26 GMT
Cool. Did you fit a pressure switch for the rear brake pedal? I fitted a pressure switch which has two wires coming off it. However the OE rear brake switch has 4 wires and am not sure which ones to connect too or if I can dump the OE rear switch in place of the pressure switch.
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Post by charwood23 on Jul 15, 2019 13:39:51 GMT
What have you done or bypassed to need a pressure switch?
If you've still got your original rear sets then you should still have the OEM brake switch. A lot of aftermarket solutions still Alos use the OEM switch too.
It has four wires because of the cruise control circuit that it also functions for. The pressure switch will see you lose the cruise control cancel function.
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Rcs19
Jul 15, 2019 14:54:49 GMT
Post by exuptoy on Jul 15, 2019 14:54:49 GMT
....maybe......or you could just mimic the second signal once again like the RCS front switch with a couple of relays?
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Rcs19
Jul 15, 2019 15:02:37 GMT
via mobile
Post by ccmcfadyen on Jul 15, 2019 15:02:37 GMT
What have you done or bypassed to need a pressure switch? If you've still got your original rear sets then you should still have the OEM brake switch. A lot of aftermarket solutions still Alos use the OEM switch too. It has four wires because of the cruise control circuit that it also functions for. The pressure switch will see you lose the cruise control cancel function. I think I have used the cruise control once lol I am still using the OE brake switch. But I also fitted a hydraulic pressure switch in the hope to eliminate the spring loaded pedal. Currently the hydraulic switch isn't wired up as I wasn't sure which wires to connect into. I guess there is no way to connect all 4 wires to the pressure switch? Sorry but electronics is not a subject I know anything about.
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Post by charwood23 on Jul 15, 2019 20:46:10 GMT
You can mimic the signal using the relay setup like you can for the front. Just the same again for the rear.
I'm not sure what benefits there are to removing then spring switch though. Its not like it's a hindrance.
FYI - Yellow and the black are your brake switch.
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Rcs19
Jul 15, 2019 21:27:36 GMT
Post by exuptoy on Jul 15, 2019 21:27:36 GMT
The only issue with the banjo switches (so I’ve read...) is the cut in point of the switch is something like 30psi so light breaking won’t actuate it?
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Rcs19
Jul 15, 2019 21:40:46 GMT
Post by ccmcfadyen on Jul 15, 2019 21:40:46 GMT
You can mimic the signal using the relay setup like you can for the front. Just the same again for the rear. I'm not sure what benefits there are to removing then spring switch though. Its not like it's a hindrance. FYI - Yellow and the black are your brake switch. Yeah I took apart the spring switch. It has 4 contact points. Two for each system I guess and two states on or off. When I pull the switch apart and turn the ignition on, the brake light switch is permanently on. I connected the pressure switch to two wires and managed to get the relay clicking but because the cruise control circuit is not connected it doesn't work properly. Even the front brake doesn't work the rear light as it's already on. I just think deleting the thick wire down to the OE switch is a much better install. But like I said my knowledge of electronics's is limited.
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Post by charwood23 on Jul 18, 2019 10:34:36 GMT
The switch is a normally closed (NC) which means the circuit is completed when the switch is not being pressed (actuated).
The actuator is the bit that hits the switches and thus when the brakes aren't being applied the switch is depressed and the circuit is broken When you apply the brakes the actuator moves off the switch letting pop out and return tomits NC state closing the circuit and turning on the light.
It sounds like you've not connected the brake light wires. From memory they are yellow. Use them for your pressure switch. Your cruise control likely won't work with out further modification. It may (I've not messed with the rear) but pressing the rear brake won't cancel it.
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