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Post by rizla on Aug 16, 2017 15:11:41 GMT
I love My MT-10-SP, but as I have run GP Shift pattern for the last 7 or 8 years on my R1 and Tuono V4 I am struggling to get used to standard shift again. The SP uses a pull type QS sensor so simply rotating the shift knuckle 180 degrees would not allow use of the quickshifter. Solution? Megabucks on aftermarket rearsets or................ Modify an R1M gear shift lever to suit. 1st pic is the SP gear lever. 2nd pic is the R1M lever with 2 shift rod mount points 3rd pic shows that the R1M lever is 35mm longer than the SP lever 4th pic shows my modified R1M lever with 35mm cut out and re-welded. We left the weld as it was rather than cleaning it to give it some extra strength. 5th pic shows the modified lever in place. 6th pic shows the angle between shift rod and shift knuckle. This needs to be as close to 90 degrees as possible to ensure smooth operation. I took the shift knuckle off and rotated it a couple of splines from the OE position to maintain the correct angle. Job done and I retain the use of the quickshifter
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2018 4:48:07 GMT
Hi Rizla, when you had your gear lever shortened, did you TIG weld it ? If so, did you have any difficulties in welding the casting ? Sometimes with Jap castings, they can be buggers to weld, I just want to know if there any welding issues before I shorten the gear lever I have (R1 lever). Thanks for your help.
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Post by rizla on Jan 20, 2018 11:06:16 GMT
Hi Rizla, when you had your gear lever shortened, did you TIG weld it ? If so, did you have any difficulties in welding the casting ? Sometimes with Jap castings, they can be buggers to weld, I just want to know if there any welding issues before I shorten the gear lever I have (R1 lever). Thanks for your help. Hi mate. I'm not 100% sure of the welding process as I got it done for me. I do however have the lever pictured above spare as I swapped to a Giamoto lever when I fitted R1 reasets. My welder didn't have any issues and didn't grind back the weld to increase strength at the join. <iframe width="25.839999999999918" height="3.240000000000009" style="position: absolute; width: 25.84px; height: 3.24px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 0px; top: 0px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_57101706"></iframe> <iframe width="25.839999999999918" height="3.240000000000009" style="position: absolute; width: 25.84px; height: 3.24px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 1226px; top: -218px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_24964874"></iframe> <iframe width="25.839999999999918" height="3.240000000000009" style="position: absolute; width: 25.84px; height: 3.24px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 10px; top: -110px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_19551485"></iframe> <iframe width="25.839999999999918" height="3.240000000000009" style="position: absolute; width: 25.84px; height: 3.24px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 1226px; top: -110px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_80507690"></iframe>
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2018 13:07:57 GMT
Cheers Rizla, I will shorten the lever and bevel the cut edges, TIG weld it up, dress the weld level with the rest of the lever, lick of paint...............Job done. Thanks for your help.
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