|
Post by andy1957 on Sept 14, 2018 12:46:02 GMT
I wondered if adjusting the rear suspension to a softer setting would also lower the seat height, which would be an advantage for me as currently on the balls of my feet and would prefer to get my heels down when stopped etc.
|
|
|
Post by X Plane on Sept 14, 2018 16:18:29 GMT
If you only adjust the damping then the answer is no. However, if you screwed the pre-load rings on top of the spring anti-clockwise then answer is yes that can. Beware that can upset the handling of the bike expesially if you weigh more than an Stick Insect... Not getting my feet flat on the ground is not possible for (29” inside leg) me. It never bothers me. I just mainly slide off the right hand side of the seat to get my right foot or toe to the ground.
|
|
|
Post by andy1957 on Sept 14, 2018 16:59:00 GMT
Thanks for the reply, I may give that a try and see how it handles. If it's unsettled I can put it back to where it was.
|
|
|
Post by dangermouse on Sept 14, 2018 17:46:01 GMT
I weigh about 100Kg in leathers and had to wind-on three turns of rear pre-load to get the sag within spec. You'd have to be pretty light for the stock pre-load to be okay as it is.
|
|
|
Post by X Plane on Sept 14, 2018 17:53:22 GMT
Thanks for the reply, I may give that a try and see how it handles. If it's unsettled I can put it back to where it was. Yep. It won’t lower seat height much though. Oh and do Beware, the stock spring is real weak, as DM says, especially if you weigh over 80kg suited up then screwing off the pre-load will affect handling as the shock will bottom out on bumps and bash your spine etc. PS. There’s always slipping the forks up the yokes a bit and lowering links. Mechanically bigger job though.
|
|
|
Post by andy1957 on Sept 15, 2018 7:08:27 GMT
Thanks Guys, I'll leave it alone I think, sounds like trouble otherwise.
|
|
|
Post by dangermouse on Sept 15, 2018 12:34:07 GMT
If you're not the sort of rider to use all the ground clearance, a better bet might be to get a set of different length suspension links (nicknamed dog bones) made up to drop the rear but maintain spring-preload and drop the yokes down the forks a similar amount at the front. A bit of spannering and ~£40 later you'll be sorted.
|
|
|
Post by dangermouse on Sept 15, 2018 21:11:29 GMT
|
|
mario
Full Member
Posts: 72
|
Post by mario on Oct 8, 2018 10:01:33 GMT
If you're not the sort of rider to use all the ground clearance, a better bet might be to get a set of different length suspension links (nicknamed dog bones) made up to drop the rear but maintain spring-preload and drop the yokes down the forks a similar amount at the front. A bit of spannering and ~£40 later you'll be sorted. Personally that is a worse idea as you will alter the entire geometry of the bike. Rake and trail will change, the front will be sat higher than the rear giving a more rearward weight bias, it will try to wheelie more than it already does (which is a lot as we all know), etc, etc. To counter act the changes made by altering the rear linkage you will also need to drop the yokes (raise the forks) but then it still won't compensate for change in swingarm angle, etc. So really, the proper way to do it is buy an adjustable rear shock that lets you set ride height, and then drop the yokes to compensate. That will allow you to lower the ride height of the bike without majorly messing with the geometry. You will always have geometry changes when altering ride height, but big changes have big effects, best to keep it as close to factory unless you know what your doing. Speaking of which Dave Moss has a video on his website on how to properly setup the MT-10 with stock suspension. davemosstuning.com/2018-fz-10-mt-10-test-ride/
|
|
|
Post by X Plane on Oct 8, 2018 10:30:12 GMT
Just slide off one side of the seat. I’m 5’ 4” 29” inside leg and I slide of seat on Enduro bikes etc. Keep the toes of the other foot on the peg and slide ass over off seat on the side your putting foot down. If camber allows I usually slide off to the right, allows you to stick bike into 1st gear and ride off.
|
|
mario
Full Member
Posts: 72
|
Post by mario on Oct 8, 2018 10:35:10 GMT
Just slide off one side of the seat. I’m 5’ 4” 29” inside leg and I slide of seat on Enduro bikes etc. Keep the toes of the other foot on the peg and slide ass over off seat on the side your putting foot down. If camber allows I usually slide off to the right, allows you to stick bike into 1st gear and ride off. Same here! I'm also 5'4" and slide off to the right, however it's funny, I seem to find the MT-10 quite easy to deal with, where as some other bikes that are the same height have been more awkward.
|
|
|
Post by X Plane on Oct 8, 2018 10:40:42 GMT
Just slide off one side of the seat. I’m 5’ 4” 29” inside leg and I slide of seat on Enduro bikes etc. Keep the toes of the other foot on the peg and slide ass over off seat on the side your putting foot down. If camber allows I usually slide off to the right, allows you to stick bike into 1st gear and ride off. Same here! I'm also 5'4" and slide off to the right, however it's funny, I seem to find the MT-10 quite easy to deal with, where as some other bikes that are the same height have been more awkward. Yeah. The MT is not a tall problem. I've never been a both feet touching down person. The MT is even well balanced and easy to slide off the seat on one side.
|
|
|
Post by dangermouse on Oct 8, 2018 18:04:41 GMT
If you're not the sort of rider to use all the ground clearance, a better bet might be to get a set of different length suspension links (nicknamed dog bones) made up to drop the rear but maintain spring-preload and drop the yokes down the forks a similar amount at the front. A bit of spannering and ~£40 later you'll be sorted. Personally that is a worse idea as you will alter the entire geometry of the bike. Rake and trail will change, the front will be sat higher than the rear giving a more rearward weight bias, it will try to wheelie more than it already does (which is a lot as we all know), etc, etc. To counter act the changes made by altering the rear linkage you will also need to drop the yokes (raise the forks) but then it still won't compensate for change in swingarm angle, etc. If you'll re-read what I said I already mentioned matching the front ride height to the rear. The change the the rear swing arm angle will make a trivial difference, the geometry will otherwise be unaffected, of course you may well affect the rear rising rate "ramp-up" by changing link ratios (if it's progressive on this bike) I doubt if it would make any real-world difference to 95% of riders who ride no where near the handling limits of modern bikes.
|
|
|
Post by ghostrider.1127 on Oct 8, 2018 19:32:50 GMT
Get an R1 15-18 rear shock , with adj height
|
|
|
Post by X Plane on Oct 8, 2018 20:40:08 GMT
^ and Nitron R3 Shock lenght can be adjustable also 👍
|
|